Category Archives: Climbing

Shawangunks & Lake George

A few weeks ago, I got the chance to climb with some good friends in the Gunks and Adirondacks. Saturday it was Jonathan and I doing some trad routes in the Gunks. There was a 5.3 named Minty that I led, and it was horrific, took me about an hour to climb 120 feet or so. The crux of the route must have been swinging out onto the face, where it was lightly overhung, and the cracks I wanted to protect were totally hollow. After finishing the first pitch, I decided to call it a day and we rappelled down. Super fun day, no incidents, and we left the crag safely after climbing a few very fun routes. “Belly roll” was another favorite.

Minty 5.3 - 5.5
Some people from Mountain Project's website climbing Minty.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new_york/the_gunks/the_trapps/105800326

Sunday we climbed at Lake George’s Roger’s Campground crag. This cliff was really big, and fairly well established, though nothing like the Gunks. I led a 5.7 sport slab route that was a little scary, and then Jared led a scarier and more awesome 5.9 sport slab route. Shanon got real epic with a pregnant climbing harness. Lulu and Jonathan kept it real as well at Rogers.

Our Climbs were to the left of this slab, around the corner.
Our Climbs were to the left of this slab, around the corner. Mountain Project doesn't have that crag listed yet.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new_york/adirondacks/lake_george_rogers_rock/106092131

This was followed up by a strong bodily reaction to me seeing Red Bull Cola at a gas station, and then meeting up with Yanni and Amanda in Saratoga for some local delicacies. An epic weekend,

I have a few pics that I’ll try to get up here soon. They are on FB right now, but not out on the general web.

Armadillo – Baxter State Park, Maine 5.7 IV

Arrived in Baxter State Park at 1:30 am, and slept on the dirt on the side of the road. After a quite intense car ride from Boston Suburbia, now super tired, we slept a max 4 hours, on the side of a road, we thought about only getting 3, but decided against it. Waking up at 5:55am, we hitchhiked (picked up right away)into the park because we didn’t have a parking pass. Ran and speed hiked 3.2 miles to the ranger hut to assure we could get a permit to climb.

Justin got there 5 minutes late after running up the trail while wearing a heavy backpack. Ranger Tom still let us in, but told us we would have to work out access to Armadillo with the group ahead of us. They had an hour head start on us, but we passed them due to their poor route finding choice up the slabby wet choss.

We snaked them (got there first and climbed it)…. ethically fine I guess, as they didn’t ask questions or say anything to us, and just left instead of climbing it. My guess is that they thought it best not to climb the route after their earlier poor route finding.

The route itself had a crazy amount of exposure, and could be done in either 5-9 pitches. Simul climbing would help a lot in terms of speed on some pitches due to how eas The chimney and face climb on the first pitch were incredible, Right away, we knew that we were in for a good time. The next pitch was a great hand to shoulder sized crack. This crack pitch was short, but still a little stiff. At the top of the crack, you realize that this belay and the previous were both blocks that seemed mysteriously attached to the wall, and the thought of it breaking off was quite harrowing. The route turned into fun 5.5 / 5.6 from here. Very fun, with huge exposure. Varied types of moves, and a plenitude of loose rock that could easily dropped on your partners.

We started up the beauty that is Armadillo at about 10:20, and finished at about 4:30. A speedy hike across the famous Knife Edge and out got us to the Roaring Brook station around 8:30, with very little light to spare. A generous USAF physician gave us a ride in his super nice SUV back to our car.  We finished off the day with beers and food at the Loose Moose, and more sleeping on the ground under open skies.

Armadillo – Baxter SP

places America can still innovate in the world.

Outside of the internet / IT sector that is…. Some people I follow, like Mr. Pinchbeck suggest that agriculture, water reclamation, energy (including renewables), and health are the areas where Americans can still innovate and pioneer new ground.

These things allow us to imaging a few possibilities for working towards a more sustainable future, if that is something you choose to do. These things can be approached from a for profit, close source, open source, not for profit etc.